Old windows were built to last 100+ years. They can be restored, reglazed, and weatherstripped instead of replaced.

Best For: Authenticity, energy efficiency (after restoration), preserving value

Exterior or interior storm windows protect original glass and improve insulation without removing character.

Solid wood doors can be refinished. Antique hardware can be repaired or replicated.

Slate

Cedar shake

Clay tile

Asphalt (later replacement)

Copper flashing & gutters

Slate roofs can last 100–150 years with proper repair

Cedar shake often lasts 25–40 years

Avoid walking on historic slate or tile

Use roofers experienced in period materials

Common in homes built before ~1940. Safe when intact — unsafe when modified incorrectly. Insurance may require updates.

Old fuse panels can be replaced with modern breakers while keeping visible interior character.

Use electricians familiar with plaster walls to avoid excessive damage.

Historic homes may have a mix of copper, galvanized steel, PEX, or cast iron.

Galvanized pipes rust internally and reduce water pressure

Cast iron stacks can crack with age

Copper is durable but can corrode

Modern PEX may be used for updated lines

Warning:
Galvanized pipes often need full replacement, not patch repairs.

Use lime mortar, NOT modern Portland cement — it can crack walls.

Add vapor barriers and improve airflow to prevent moisture damage.

Waterproofing must be done correctly to protect structural beams.

• Gutters & drainage

• Foundation inspection

• Paint touch-ups

• Exterior washing (gentle)

• Window/door lubrication

• Landscape trimming around foundation

• Roof inspection

• Gutter cleaning

• HVAC prep

• Check for ice dams

• Inspect attic ventilation

• Monitor basement moisture

• Painting

• Light landscaping

• Gentle cleaning

• Hardware polishing

• Simple plaster patching

• Structural repairs

• Roof work

• Chimney rebuilds

• Electrical updates

• Window restoration

• Masonry